Contemporary Barcelona is the most relaxed and liberal of all Spanish cities. In Franco’s day, many visitors would be arrested for the skimpy, revealing clothes worn around the city streets, but these days no one is going to bat an eyelid if you wear a pair of shorts and sandals down Les Ramblas, although in the interest of blending in with the locals consider reserving your resort wear for the beach. Church officials will not prevent you from visiting churches and cathedrals if you’re scantily clad, but again, try and be as sympathetic as possible to local customs. Women can cover up when needed in the summer months by carrying around a light cardigan or shawl in their bag.

In spite of what you’ve heard in days of yore, when Spaniards showed up for appointments 2 or 3 hours late, most nationals now arrive on time as they do in the rest of the E.U. countries. It’s always wise for men to wear a suit for business meetings. The familiar tú form is now widely used in Spain, a sign of the country’s shaking off of their old-school image. But to be on the safe side, foreign Spanish speakers should address strangers, particularly older people, with the formal usted. Kissing on both cheeks is reserved for friends, or people your friends introduce you to. Handshakes are more the norm in business transactions.

Catalan nationalism is an extremely sensitive subject and often avoided even among the Catalans themselves. Unless you are an expert on the topic, stay away from it. If you are invited into a private home for dinner, you are not expected to bring a bottle of wine, although a small gift of chocolates or flowers will be appreciated. The Spanish and Catalans are openly affectionate. You should not be offended or feel uncomfortable when people touch you on the back, arms, and so on.